Equipment · Plant lighting

Planted Aquarium Lighting

Light is the engine of a planted tank, and the most common place people over- or under-buy. Choose a fixture by the tank's length, its water depth, and the plants you actually want to keep, not just by gallons.

Illustration of a rimless planted aquarium lit by a slim LED fixture on mounting legs

What matters most

Match the fixture to tank length

Most aquarium lights are sold to span a range of tank lengths, either with extendable brackets or as fixed sizes. A light that is too short leaves the ends of the tank dim; one that is too long may not mount securely.

Account for water depth

Light intensity falls off with distance. Two tanks with the same volume can need very different fixtures if one is long and shallow and the other is tall. Deeper tanks generally need a stronger fixture to reach plants at the substrate.

Prefer adjustable output

Dimming and a built-in or external timer let you start conservatively and increase gradually. That flexibility is worth more than a high maximum output, especially in low-tech tanks without injected CO2.

Plan the mounting

Rimless tanks need brackets or hanging kits made for rimless glass; framed tanks may need legs that sit on the rim. Check the mounting style before anything else.

Check before you buy

  • What is the tank's exact length, and does the light's bracket range cover it?
  • How deep is the water from surface to substrate?
  • Low-tech or injected CO2? Strong light without CO2 tends to invite algae.
  • Is there a lid, a rim, or neither? Does the mount suit it?
  • Does it have dimming and a schedule, or will you need a separate timer?
You can skip this if…

Your current light already covers the full tank length, reaches the substrate, and grows your chosen plants without persistent algae.

Ready to choose?

We have checked 10 plant lighting options for identity, specifications, and fit. Compare them, with what each needs and who should skip it, here:

Guides on this topic