Keeping Shrimp in Planted Tanks

Shrimp graze biofilm and algae on plant leaves, hide in moss, and do little harm to plants. In return, a planted tank gives them food, cover, and generally steadier water. The risks come mostly from the things keepers add to grow plants, and from moving shrimp into water that differs from what they came from.

What water do Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp need?

Most dwarf shrimp sold in the hobby belong to two groups, and they are not equally forgiving.

Shrimp Science lists cherry shrimp at pH 6.5 to 8.0, GH 4 to 10, and KH 1 to 8, and describes them as among the hardiest of all shrimp. For Caridina, sources vary a little: Shrimp Mania gives an ideal pH of 5.5 to 6, GH of 4 to 5, and KH of 0, while Aquarium Breeder's crystal red guide gives a pH range of 6.2 to 7.2 with GH of 4 to 6 and KH of 0 to 1. Treat these as guides rather than targets. Both sources stress that stable conditions matter more than hitting a precise number.

If your tap water is moderately hard, Neocaridina are the simpler choice. Caridina usually mean committing to RO water and a remineralizer.

Aquasoil and Caridina

Many Caridina keepers use an active, buffering aquasoil. Shrimp Mania explains that active soil buffers the water and lowers pH, holding it in the range these shrimp prefer. Two cautions apply:

• New aquasoil can release ammonia. According to Aquarium Breeder, some soils need aging for about a month before shrimp go in. Cycle the tank fully and test before adding animals.
• Buffering does not last forever. Over time the soil's ability to hold pH down declines. Tap water with high KH uses it up faster, which is one reason Caridina keepers prefer RO water.

Neocaridina do well on inert gravel, sand, or aquasoil. For more on substrate types, see how to choose aquarium substrate.

Cycle first, then add shrimp

Shrimp are more sensitive to ammonia and nitrite than many hardy fish. Aquarium Breeder states that a crystal shrimp tank should be fully cycled and established before any shrimp are introduced. A tank that has run for some weeks, with plants growing and biofilm on surfaces, also gives young shrimp food to graze. Our cycling and water testing guide explains how to confirm a tank is ready.

Is copper in fertilizers and medications dangerous for shrimp?

A few practical steps reduce the risk:

• Quarantine or rinse new plants. Aquarium Breeder advises against adding newly bought plants straight into a shrimp tank, because some are treated with copper or other chemicals for snails. Tissue-culture plants avoid much of this risk.
• Flush taps with copper pipes. Running water for a couple of minutes before filling buckets reduces copper picked up from standing pipes.
• Start fertilizer gently. Aquarium Breeder suggests starting at half the label dose in a shrimp tank and increasing slowly.
• Avoid garden products. Pesticides and plant treatments made for houseplants or gardens do not belong in an aquarium.

Our fertilizer basics guide covers the types of fertilizer, and the fertilizers hub explains what to look for on labels.

Can you inject CO2 in a shrimp tank?

Injected CO2 lowers pH and, if overdosed, can suffocate livestock. Shrimp give few warning signs before it becomes a problem. Aquarium Breeder goes as far as saying CO2 is a "big NO" in crystal shrimp tanks, partly because sensitive Caridina react badly to daily pH swings.

For the basics of injected CO2, see the aquarium CO2 system guide.

Filter intakes and flow

Baby shrimp are tiny and are easily pulled into filter intakes. Aquarium Breeder recommends sponge filters for crystal shrimp because they create gentle flow and cannot suck up babies. If you use a canister or hang-on-back filter, fit a fine pre-filter sponge over the intake and rinse it in tank water during maintenance. The planted aquarium filter guide compares filter types.

How do you acclimate new shrimp?

Shrimp react badly to sudden changes in temperature, pH, and hardness. A slow drip acclimation is widely used:

1. Float the bag or place shrimp and their water in a clean container to equalize temperature.
2. Drip tank water in slowly, using airline tubing with a knot or valve, over an hour or more.
3. When the volume has roughly doubled a few times, net the shrimp into the tank. Avoid adding the shipping water.

Take extra time when the seller's water differs a lot from yours, which is common when moving Caridina between soft and hard water.

Plants that help shrimp

Almost any healthy planted tank suits shrimp, but some plants are especially useful:

• Mosses such as Java moss offer grazing surface and cover for young shrimp.
• Floating plants absorb excess nutrients and provide trailing roots for shrimp to pick at. See floating plants for aquariums.
• Epiphytes such as Anubias and Java fern grow on wood and rock without root fertilizer, which suits low-input shrimp tanks. See how to attach Anubias and Java fern.
• Dense stem plants give shelter during molting.

In Shrimp Science's care guide, cherry shrimp do well in heavily planted tanks, where biofilm and algae help feed them.

Common mistakes

• Adding shrimp before the tank is cycled.
• Putting Caridina in hard tap water without a plan for soft water.
• Dosing a new fertilizer at full strength without reading the label.
• Treating fish with copper-based medication in a shared tank.
• Adding fresh store plants without rinsing or quarantine.
• Leaving filter intakes uncovered.
• Turning up CO2 quickly, or leaving it on overnight.
• Chasing exact numbers instead of keeping water stable.

Next steps

• Confirm the tank is ready with the cycling and water testing guide, the test kits hub, and our test kits for checking GH and KH.
• Choose a base that suits your shrimp with the substrates hub or our substrates compared by water chemistry.
• Pick forgiving plants from easy aquarium plants for beginners.
• Work out a full low-tech or high-tech setup with the setup finder.