Anubias Care: Light, Placement, Growth, and Common Problems
How to grow Anubias nana, 'Petite', and larger barteri forms: light, CO2, temperature, placement, propagation, and fixes for algae, rot, and yellow leaves.

Anubias is a slow, tough plant that grows on wood or rock, not in the substrate. Give it low to moderate light, no CO2 injection, and a temperature of about 20–28 °C (68–82 °F). Keep the rhizome, the thick green stem the leaves grow from, above the substrate so it does not rot. Expect a new leaf every few weeks at most. Most problems are algae on old leaves under strong light, a buried or rotting rhizome, or a nutrient shortfall that shows as yellowing or pinholes.
On this page
- Anubias quick facts
- What is Anubias, and which one do you have?
- How much light does Anubias need?
- Does Anubias need CO2 or fertilizer?
- What temperature and water does Anubias need?
- Where should you place Anubias, and how do you attach it?
- How fast does Anubias grow?
- How do you propagate Anubias?
- Why are my Anubias leaves covered in algae?
- Why is my Anubias rhizome soft or rotting?
- Why does my Anubias have yellow leaves or holes?
- Does Anubias flower underwater?
- Which tanks suit Anubias?
- Common mistakes
- Next steps
Anubias is the plant most often recommended to people who have killed plants before. Tropica rates Anubias barteri var. nana easy, with low light and low CO2 needs, and notes that herbivorous fish do not eat it. Aquasabi calls it a "growing plastic plant" for how durable it is. That toughness has one condition: it must be planted correctly. This guide covers what Anubias needs, how big the common forms get, and how to tell normal slow growth from a real problem.
Anubias quick facts
| Factor | Anubias barteri var. nana | Anubias 'Petite' | Larger barteri forms |
|---|---|---|---|
| Difficulty | Easy (Tropica) | Easy (Tropica) | Easy; sold as hardy (Aquarium Co-Op) |
| Light | Low (Tropica) | Low (Tropica) | Low (Aquasabi, Aquarium Co-Op) |
| CO2 | Low; not required | Low; not required | Not required |
| Growth rate | Slow | Slow | Slow |
| Size | 5-10 cm in Tropica's description (up to 15+ cm in its data box) | 3-5+ cm tall after two months (Tropica) | 25-40 cm tall and wide (Aquasabi, var. barteri) |
| Temperature | 12-30 °C tolerated (Aquasabi) | 12-30 °C tolerated (Aquasabi) | 12-30 °C tolerated (Aquasabi) |
| pH | 5-8 (Aquasabi) | 5-8 (Aquasabi) | 5-8 (Aquasabi) |
| Placement | Foreground to midground, on hardscape | Foreground or nano tanks, on hardscape | Midground to background, on hardscape |
| Propagation | Rhizome division | Rhizome division; branches naturally | Rhizome division, side shoots |
What is Anubias, and which one do you have?
Anubias barteri is an aroid (family Araceae) from West Africa. Wikipedia gives its native range as south-eastern Nigeria, Cameroon, and Bioko, and Tropica lists Cameroon as the origin of var. nana. In the wild it grows partly or fully submerged, attached to rocks and wood. Wikipedia lists several botanical varieties, including nana, glabra, angustifolia, and caladiifolia, and the trade adds many cultivars on top of those.
The three forms most keepers meet are:
- Anubias barteri var. nana. The common small Anubias. Tropica's description gives a height of 5-10 cm (up to 15+ cm in its data box) and a rhizome of 10-15 cm or more. Aquasabi lists 5-10 cm tall and 5-20 cm wide, with robust, hard leaves.
- Anubias 'Petite' (often sold as nana 'Petite'). A cultivar that Tropica says arose as a mutation in cultivation at a Singapore nursery. Tropica gives 3-5+ cm after two months and notes that it branches well into dense groups. Aquasabi gives a leaf blade of roughly 2.5-3 cm long. It is a common choice for nano tanks.
- Larger barteri forms. Aquasabi lists Anubias barteri var. barteri at 25-40 cm tall and wide, with large oval leaves. Aquarium Co-Op says its Anubias barteri can grow to more than 25 cm (10 in) tall with a rhizome more than 10 cm (4 in) long, depending on the variety. These need room and suit midground and background positions in larger tanks.
Plant labels vary between growers, so treat a trade name as a guide to size rather than a guarantee.
How much light does Anubias need?
Low light is enough. Tropica rates both nana and 'Petite' as low light, and says var. nana "will thrive in shady places, where other plants will not." Aquarium Co-Op recommends low light of about 10-20 PAR for its Anubias.
More light does not help much, because the plant grows slowly whatever you do. It mainly helps algae. Aquarium Co-Op warns that too much light may cause algae growth and suggests placing Anubias further from a bright light or in the shade of taller or floating plants. Buce Plant recommends low to medium light for the same reason.
Sources disagree slightly about 'Petite'. Tropica says it does not tolerate high light intensity, while Aquasabi says it grows under both very low and strong light. The safe reading is that 'Petite' survives brighter tanks but stays cleaner in shade. The light intensity and duration guide explains how to set a photoperiod.
Does Anubias need CO2 or fertilizer?
Anubias does not need injected CO2. Tropica rates its CO2 demand as low, Aquarium Co-Op lists the requirement as none, and Aquasabi says CO2 is not required but is beneficial. Buce Plant notes that CO2 is beneficial for faster growth, but the plant does well in low-tech tanks without it.
Because Anubias grows on hardscape, it feeds mostly from the water rather than the substrate. Aquarium Co-Op recommends an all-in-one liquid fertilizer and, for yellowing or browning leaves, suggests testing nitrate and dosing until it reads 20-50 ppm. It adds that Anubias and Java fern are particularly prone to potassium shortage. Root tabs do little for a plant whose roots are on a piece of wood; see root tabs vs. liquid fertilizer for the difference.
What temperature and water does Anubias need?
Anubias tolerates a wide range. Aquasabi lists a temperature tolerance of 12-30 °C, a pH of 5-8, and general hardness of 0-30 °dGH for var. nana, 'Petite', and var. barteri. Buce Plant gives a narrower working range of 20-28 °C (68-82 °F) and pH 6.0-7.5, and Wikipedia gives 22-28 °C as ideal. If you keep tropical fish at normal temperatures, Anubias will fit. Stable conditions matter more than hitting an exact number.
Where should you place Anubias, and how do you attach it?
Attach Anubias to wood or rock rather than planting it in the substrate. Tropica's planting guide says not to cover the rhizome or the plant will rot, and to tie it on or squeeze it between stones or roots instead. Its var. nana page recommends fishing line to fix it to a stone or root. The roots can go into the substrate; only the rhizome must stay uncovered.
Our guide to how to attach Anubias and Java fern covers thread, glue, and wedging step by step, so we will not repeat it here. If you plan to glue, a cyanoacrylate gel is the usual choice.
- Best for
- Attaching anubias, ferns, bucephalandra or moss to wood and rock.
- Skip this if
- You only plant stem plants and carpets into substrate.
- Type
- Cyanoacrylate gel
- Contents
- 2 pack, 4 g each
- Bond time
- Bonds within seconds; press for 20 seconds
- Made and labeled by an aquarium brand for plants
- Gel stays where placed
- Two small tubes
- Not for gluing to glass
- Small 4 g tubes run out on big scapes
Seachem describes Flourish Glue as a cyanoacrylate gel for attaching moss and plants to rock and driftwood in freshwater or saltwater aquariums. Its directions are to apply a small amount to the plant's roots and press it in place for 20 seconds. Seachem warns it bonds skin and eyes in seconds and says not to use it on glass. Skip it if you would rather tie plants on, or if your Anubias will sit in a crevice. For other options, see our plant glue and planting supplies.
Good spots include shaded areas under wood, the base of rocks, and the lower branches of driftwood. Buce Plant suggests 'Petite' for the foreground and larger round-leaved forms for the midground and background.
How fast does Anubias grow?
Slowly. Tropica and Aquasabi both rate it slow, and Buce Plant puts it at roughly one new leaf every few weeks (its pages give figures from two to six weeks). Aquarium Co-Op notes that a new barteri can take several weeks to settle in before it starts sprouting leaves. Tropica adds that Anubias leaves can persist for several years. Judge a new plant over a month or two, not a week.
How do you propagate Anubias?
Divide the rhizome. Tropica, Aquasabi, and Aquarium Co-Op all describe the same method: cut the rhizome with sharp scissors or a blade, and each piece becomes its own plant. Buce Plant notes that each half continues growing on its own. Aim for several leaves on each piece, then attach it as you would a new plant. Aquasabi also lists separating daughter plants (side shoots) for var. barteri. Because growth is slow, divisions take time to fill out.
Why are my Anubias leaves covered in algae?
This is the most common Anubias complaint. Tropica explains that because the leaves persist for several years, slow-growing algae have time to establish on them. Buce Plant's product page specifically warns against intense light to prevent spot algae.
To reduce it:
- Move the plant into shade, or let taller or floating plants shade it, as Aquarium Co-Op suggests.
- Keep the photoperiod moderate. Brighter light speeds algae more than it speeds Anubias.
- Trim the worst leaves at the stalk base. The plant will replace them slowly.
The planted tank algae troubleshooting guide covers the types of algae and how to tackle each one.
Why is my Anubias rhizome soft or rotting?
Aquarium Co-Op describes "Anubias rot" as leaves detaching at the base of the stalk, a rhizome that turns mushy rather than firm, discolored patches that can look like clear jelly or turn white, yellow, brown, or black, and a foul smell in advanced cases. It says the cause has not been confirmed, with bacteria or fungus the main suspects, and that chemical treatments it has seen tested did not work.
Its recommended fix is to cut away all soft or discolored rhizome with a sharp knife or scissors, keep only firm, healthy tissue, and reattach it. A plant trimmed back to healthy rhizome can regrow. Aquarium Co-Op also suggests contacting the seller if a new plant arrives with rot. A buried rhizome is a separate, avoidable cause; Tropica warns that covering it leads to rot.
Why does my Anubias have yellow leaves or holes?
- One old leaf yellowing on a plant that is still producing new leaves is usually normal turnover. Trim it at the base.
- Several leaves yellowing or browning can point to a nutrient shortfall. Aquarium Co-Op suggests checking nitrate and dosing an all-in-one fertilizer.
- Pinholes in older leaves, sometimes rimmed in yellow or brown, are the classic potassium shortage pattern, according to Aquarium Co-Op, which names Anubias and Java fern as susceptible.
- Leaves dropping off at the stalk with a soft rhizome is rot, covered above.
Our guide to why aquarium plants turn yellow explains how to read the pattern before you change anything, and the plant problem checklist walks through it at the tank.
Does Anubias flower underwater?
Yes. Tropica notes that Anubias barteri var. nana flowers frequently underwater. A flower stalk is not a sign of stress and needs no action. You can leave it or trim it.
Which tanks suit Anubias?
- Low-tech tanks. Low light, no CO2, and slow growth make it a natural fit. See low-tech vs. high-tech planted tanks.
- Betta tanks. Its low light needs match a gently lit betta setup, and our planted betta tank guide suggests tying it to wood that reaches toward the surface so its broad leaves sit where a betta can use them.
- Shrimp tanks. Buce Plant says the tough foliage resists grazing from dwarf shrimp. Epiphytes need no root fertilizer, which suits low-input shrimp tanks; see shrimp in planted tanks.
- Tanks with plant-eating or rough fish. Tropica says herbivorous fish do not eat it, Aquasabi lists it as cichlid-proof, and Aquarium Co-Op suggests barteri for African cichlid and goldfish tanks. Buce Plant also notes it holds up in goldfish tanks.
- Sand or bare-bottom tanks. The substrate does not matter for a plant on hardscape. See how to grow aquarium plants in sand.
Common mistakes
- Burying the rhizome in sand or gravel.
- Putting Anubias directly under a strong light and fighting algae on its leaves.
- Expecting fast growth and adding light or fertilizer to force it.
- Using root tabs for a plant whose roots are on wood.
- Coating the rhizome in glue instead of using a small dab under the roots.
- Throwing out a plant with a small patch of rot instead of trimming back to firm tissue.
Next steps
- Attach your plant with how to attach Anubias and Java fern.
- Pair it with other hardscape plants: see our Java fern care guide, and add root-feeding Cryptocoryne below it.
- Choose more low-light species from aquarium plants that don't need CO2, or browse the aquarium plants hub.
- Compare glues and tying line in our plant glue and planting supplies.
- Ready to order companions for it? Our beginner aquarium plants to buy online covers a Java fern, a potted crypt, and two mosses, with what each listing ships.
- Plan a full setup with the setup finder.
Sources
- Anubias barteri var. nana, Tropica Aquarium Plants
- Anubias barteri 'Petite', Tropica Aquarium Plants
- Planting in the aquarium, Tropica Aquarium Plants
- Anubias barteri var. nana, Aquasabi
- Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite', Aquasabi
- Anubias barteri var. barteri, Aquasabi
- Anubias Nana, Aquarium Co-Op
- Anubias Barteri, Aquarium Co-Op
- Anubias Rot: Symptoms, Causes, and Solutions, Aquarium Co-Op
- When Should I Dose Potassium Fertilizer in My Planted Aquarium?, Aquarium Co-Op
- All About Anubias Aquarium Plants, Buce Plant
- Anubias Nana, Buce Plant
- Anubias barteri, Wikipedia
- Flourish Glue, Seachem
This page is research-based: we have not tested the equipment or methods ourselves. It draws on the sources listed and established hobby practice.
Keep reading

How to Attach Anubias and Java Fern
Why rhizome plants should not be buried, how to tie, glue, or wedge them onto wood and rock, where to place them, and how to divide and propagate them.

Aquarium Plants That Don't Need CO2: Easy, Low-Light Picks
Easy, low-light aquarium plants that grow without injected CO2, grouped by placement: epiphytes, crypts and swords, stems, mosses, floaters, and carpets.

How to Set Up a Planted Betta Tank
Set up a planted tank that suits a betta: gentle flow, a steady heater, easy low-light plants, careful tankmate choices, setup order, and upkeep.
